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Automotive Paint Correction: Comprehensive Guide To Car Paint Correction

Introduction

This in-depth guide on Automotive Paint Correction is geared to answer a lot of the questions that beginners and veterans of detailing may have while tackling the comprehensive nature of paint correction and creating maximum results. With that being said I have created jump links to relevant sections to hopefully aid in helping you find your answer faster. If you are not finding the answer to your question regarding paint correction in this piece, I’d love to try and assist further.

Contact me with a question! 

  • Whether you are starting a auto detail business, are looking to expand your current detail offerings, or you are a DIYer that loves to take care of your vehicles, paint correction should absolutely be something you are comfortable taking on.

To often detailers and DIYers are hesitant to start paint correction as they are worried they will burn through their paint or create more swirls and scratches as they are not comfortable with the techniques.

Automotive paint correction is one of the most exciting things to tackle when detailing a vehicle. It can take a vehicle from a lack luster appearance to absolute brilliance.

My first introduction to auto paint correction was when I was age 15 and I had my first vehicle, a Red 1990 Acura Legend. It was a 2-door coupe and had almost 200k miles on it but still ran great and I had just finished re-painting my childhood home for my parents to help pay for it. The paint had some light oxidation and my dad (Mike Schoonover) who had spent a good portion of his college and early twenties detailing cars by hand gave me my first lesson in correcting dull auto paint. At that time (2004) machine polishers where really only used by body shops and even then you could only really find a rotary polisher. So he pulled out some 100% cotton t-shirts that we cut up and a handful of microfiber towels, and showed me how to use the Meguiars professional line to hand cut and polish the paint. While I may have not been able to achieve results like I can today with advanced compounds and polishes, I got all the oxidation out of that cars paint and restored it with some incredible depth and clarity….all purely by hand. It gave me an appreciation for the true cutting and refinement power of compounds and polishes without any additional tool except for true elbow grease.

This guide aims to share with you everything you need to know about automotive paint correction and break down each aspect of the paint correction process to help you better understand how they combine to create amazing results on a vehicles paint.

Why a written guide instead of a video? We are in the process of creating a video but I wanted to share a in-depth written guide as this served me well during my detailing journey as a written guides creates greater visualization of the process and puts details on a page that are easier to reference.

Don’t worry we will update this article with our video in the coming days, so be sure to join our mailing list to be updated!

Jump To Sections

Where To Start With Automotive Paint Correction:Understanding The Tools Required

Understanding Pads and Their Role (Cut & Refinement)

Detailing Liquids: The FundamentalsLets Start Correcting: Bringing It Together

LETS GET STARTED!

Where To Start With Automotive Paint Correction:Understanding The Tools Required

Before you pick up a polisher, put some liquid on a pad, and start slaying some swirls lets get familiar with the tools of automotive paint correction and their purpose. Keep in mind there are a vast amount of options available on the market for polishers, pads, liquids, and the accessories that accompany them. There is no one size fits all method. There is the method that fits you! This comes through research and understanding your tools. Their capabilities and limitations. And developing your own comfort with them. Take the time to get to know the tools and products that you are using to aid you in paint correction. Do not fear branching out and testing new things, I encourage it!

Testing is what took me from great results to stellar.

There are three elements required when correcting paint. The force (mechanical or physical), the agitator, and the polish.

  1. The Force (Machine Polishers)-These tools play a crucial role in the correction process, enabling faster correction speeds and delivering superior results compared to hand polishing.” A polisher is the mechanical or physical force used to “activate” the correcting process. If you just placed a pad with some polish on a painted surface it would do nothing.
  2. Agitator-Polishing pads are a key component in the correcting process by providing a additional level of cut or “refinement” in the correction and agitate the polish (liquid) in its role to refine the paint.
  3. Polish-There is quite a fantastic amount of science that goes into the creation of automotive detailing polishes. This 30-minute video with Auto Geek is probably the best one I have found on the internet discussing the science behind compounds and polishes. Polishes are the combination of a carrying agent (liquid) and abrasive that have a diminishing affect as you “cycle” the product. We will dial in more on Polishing products later in this guide.

How to use a polisher

You will be using your polisher for several hours at a time when you are completing paint correction to a entire vehicle. Being comfortable with your polisher tools is very important not only to be able to maintain the results throughout the paint correction process but also to ensure good body ergonomics to reduce/prevent fatigue and avoid injury.

This “How to use a polisher” video from chemical guys is about 10 minutes and is a great introduction.

Lets discuss a few items that I don’t see talked about nearly enough or gone into detail well.

Polisher Position

Auto Paint Correction with Polisher
  • Your polishers pad should always back flat contact with the paint surface. This ensures that the backing plate is allowed to rotate without interrupting the speed. The Chemical Guys Polishing video, shows a good example of how you can mark the backing plate to ensure it is spinning correctly. If you do not maintain flat contact between your pad and the surface you will notice your backing plate speed begins to get hung up and your results will not be the same.
    • Pro Tip | Small and tight areas will require a hand polish or a smaller backing plate (1”-3”). You can get some pretty solid results by hand, this method requires a little more grit and elbow grease, but hey brings me back to detailing cars with my dad and is a great way to have a great understanding of your polishes ability since you are very limited on the application pad and its cut ability when polishing by hand.
  • Second to the pad position is your body position. Keeping the following points in mind when using a machine polishers.
    1. Stance: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart for stability. This stance provides a solid base and helps maintain balance while moving the polisher.
    2. Back Position: Keep your back straight to avoid strain. Bending at the hips rather than the waist can help maintain a healthy posture, especially when working on lower sections of a vehicle. ***Don’t be rigid, but be aware if you are cranking your back especially when working over horizontal surface such as the hood and large areas like the roof that require some finesse to access.
    3. Arm Position: Your arms should be slightly bent at the elbows, allowing for controlled movement. This position helps distribute the pressure evenly and reduces fatigue. Some would say to hold the polisher firmly with both hands but I like a more fluid grip. Your polisher is designed to be well balanced, if you placed your pad correctly your polisher balance should be fairly spot on. A light but controlled grip is all you need to move the polisher affectively, a more “firm” grip would be required where you are controlling the weight on vertical surfaces.
    4. Movement: Use your entire body to move the polisher, not just your arms. Engaging your core and legs helps in maintaining control and reduces the risk of overworking your arm and shoulder muscles.
      • Sticking with a 2x2 working area makes this possible. As an example if you are standing by the front fender and you are trying to correct the entire area of the hood you can reach you will be stretching your arms way out. This will create a loss of stability and reduction in the results you will obtain.
    5. Height Adjustments: When working on different sections of the vehicle, adjust your body height by bending your knees or using a step stool. This avoids overreaching or awkward bending, which can lead to back or shoulder pain.
      • I am a short guys 5’5, so this is something that I feel at the end of the detail if I don’t bring proper tools to help me have better access to the hood and roof. NEVER CLIMB ON TIRES OR BUMPERS, better off to have a good step stool, ladder, or similar platform to give you better height, reach, and access to the panel you are working on.
    6. Pressure Application: Apply consistent pressure, but let the weight of the polisher do most of the work. Avoid leaning into the polisher with your body weight as it can cause uneven results and excessive fatigue.
      • How much pressure do you need? Just enough to ensure the pad maintains that proper contact we mentioned. On a flat surface the machines weight will add sufficient pressure on the pad, and the natural weight of your arms and hands holding the polisher in place. Adding to much pressure can skew your results and this is where you can create to much heat on paint surface if the pad is not able to rotate effectively. More pressure does not equal greater cut or correction, your pad, liquid, and polisher speed will provide your correction level.
    7. Rest Periods: Take regular breaks to rest your arms and back, especially during lengthy polishing sessions. This helps prevent muscle fatigue and strain.

Polisher Balance and Speed

For the most part balance is covered in regards to polisher and body positioning. Again your objective is to keep the pad flat against the paint surface you are working on.

Lets dig into this a little further. You do not have to keep the ENTIRE pad flat against the surface. When working around panel edges, body curves, high and low points this is not always possible. So if you just need to use 1/4, 1/2 or more of the pad be sure that whatever surface of the pad is working to correct the paint it is making proper flat/even contact.

***Reminder that if you can’t fit a portion or all of the pad flat against your working surface you will want to explore a smaller backing plate option or hand polish to get optimal results and avoid damaging the paint.

  • Machine Speed (RPM vs Linear Movement)
    Since we are discussing how to use a polisher, lets talk about the RPM and linear speed (physical movement) of the polisher.
    The speed (RPM) of a car detailing polisher plays a critical role in the paint correction process. Different speeds are used for varying levels of cutting, polishing, and finishing, and the speed should be matched with the right pad and compound for optimal results. The following is the industry standard breakdown.
    1. Low Speeds (600-1,500 RPM)
    • Purpose: Used for waxing and buffing. Low speeds are ideal for applying waxes, sealants, and glazes.
    • Effect on Paint: Provides gentle buffing, which is great for enhancing shine and adding protective layers without cutting into the clear coat.
    • Typical Pad and Compound: Soft finishing pads with light compounds or waxes.
  • 2. Medium Speeds (1,500-3,000 RPM)
    • Purpose: Commonly used for light to moderate polishing.
    • Effect on Paint: At these speeds, polishers start to correct minor to moderate paint defects like light scratches and etchings, and enhance gloss significantly.
    • Typical Pad and Compound: Polishing pads with medium abrasiveness, paired with a polish that’s designed to remove minor imperfections.
  • 3. High Speeds (3,000-4,500 RPM)
    • Purpose: Used for heavy cutting and correction.
    • Effect on Paint: These speeds are effective for removing deeper scratches, swirls, and oxidation. They cut into the clear coat more aggressively to level out the surface imperfections.
    • Typical Pad and Compound: Firm cutting pads with a heavy cutting compound.
  • Relationship Between RPM and Polisher Movement:
    • Slow Movement: When you move the polisher slowly over the paint, it increases the heat and friction in one area, leading to more aggressive cutting or correction. This is often used at higher speeds for deep defect removal.
    • Fast Movement: Moving the polisher quickly over the surface generates less heat and friction, leading to gentler correction. This is common at lower speeds for polishing and finishing.
      • Keep in my mind that control at any speed is key! If you are “throwing” your polisher all over the place your results will be skewed at any speed.
  • General Combination/Result Breakdown:
    1. Heavy Correction: High speed with slow movement and firm pads. Removes deep scratches and defects but may leave micro-marring that needs to be polished out.
    2. Medium Correction: Medium speed with moderate polisher movement and medium pads. Corrects moderate defects and enhances gloss.
    3. Fine Polishing/Finishing: Low speed with faster movement and soft pads. Used for final passes to maximize shine and apply protective layers.
  • It's important to note that different paints (soft vs. hard) and conditions (new vs. aged) will react differently to the same polisher settings. Therefore, always test in a small, inconspicuous area first to see how the paint responds before proceeding with the entire vehicle. Additionally, maintaining a consistent pressure and not overworking an area is crucial to prevent paint damage.
    Ammo NYC does a great video with one of the legends of paint correction. You can watch their video What is the best Polishing Speed and Pressure For Paint Correction.
    Tips: Watch their pad position, body ergonomics, and movement as they give examples.

Test With Water!

Using water with a polisher and pad, often referred to as the "water bead method," is an excellent way for beginners to get comfortable with a polishing machine. This method helps in understanding the amount of pressure to apply and how to maintain consistent motion. Here's a simple guide:

Materials Needed

  • Dual Action (DA) Polisher: Ideal for beginners due to its safety and ease of use.
  • Polishing Pad: Use a medium foam pad to start.
  • Clean Water: In a spray bottle for easy application.
  • Microfiber Towels: For wiping and drying the area.
  • A Car Panel or Test Surface: Preferably a flat area like a hood or door.

Steps

  1. Setup: Attach the polishing pad to the DA polisher. Ensure the surface you're working on is clean and dry.
  2. Spray Water: Lightly mist water onto the pad and the surface. The water acts as a lubricant, reducing friction and the risk of damaging the paint.
  3. Start the Polisher: Turn on the polisher at a low to medium speed (around 1500-2500 RPM).
  4. Practice Consistent Movement: Move the polisher slowly over the surface in overlapping passes. Use a crosshatch pattern, moving up and down and then side to side.
  5. Monitor the Water Beads: As you polish, the water will start to bead up due to the motion. This is a good indicator that you're maintaining a consistent speed and pressure. If the water starts to fling off or dry out too quickly, adjust your speed and pressure accordingly.
  6. Adjust Pressure: Apply gentle pressure but let the weight of the machine do most of the work. You're aiming for a firm but not heavy-handed touch.
  7. Wipe and Check: After a few passes, turn off the polisher and wipe the area with a microfiber towel. Check your work. The goal here is to get used to the feel of the machine and the effect of your movements, not necessarily to correct paint.
  8. Repeat: Continue practicing, adjusting your technique as needed. Focus on getting comfortable with handling the polisher, maintaining consistent speed and pressure, and covering the entire surface evenly.

Tips

  • Pad Condition: Keep the pad damp but not overly wet. If it dries out, mist more water.
  • Safety: Ensure the polisher's cord is clear of the work area to avoid entanglement.
  • Patience: Take your time and get a feel for the tool. Speed and pressure control are key to effective polishing.

Understanding Pads and Their Role (Cut & Refinement)

I want to precedent this section with a note. There are hundreds of pad and liquid products on the market for detailers from all over the world. Their are some obvious choices that you will come across as you do your research that are the most popular.

I recommend choosing a brand that a history within the industry and is not hyped through marketing.

These brands are consistently testing and innovating their products to provide optimal correction and grant the detailers easier use.

Here are the top brands that come to mind:

Pad Brands & Types

  • Lake Country
    • Lake Country is the primary brand I use for my pad needs they provide some incredible pads that provide consistent results and longevity if cared for properly and are the top pick among detailers.
  • Buff and Shine
    • A smaller selection of pad options and often tailored to the body ship industry, they have created quite a few pads I keep in my arsenal for tricky paint.
  • Griots
    • Great for beginners in terms of cost and correction ability. These pads don’t have the same level of quality to them but are a great detailing pad line to get started with.
  • Rupes
    • Rupes detailing pads are specifically designed to be paired with their machines my preferred choice of detailing polishers, they are designed to reduce friction and vibration in the machine and provide optimal results. I notice they don’t work as well with other machines but are a great pad to have.

There is not a one size fits all, being a brand loyal guy I wish I could just go to one brand for my car detailing pads, but fortunately most detail suppliers sale these top brands together. I keep a combination of each of them as I have detailed several hundred cars at this point and found application for these top brands. Lake country is my go to for most vehicle paint, rupes has the wool pads from heaven for DA polishers, and for some reason there are just some paints where during my test phase a Griots or Buff and Shine pad get better results.

If you want more information on the makeup of automotive detailing pads you can check out this polishing pad FAQ by Lake Country.

Types of Automotive Detailing Pads

  1. Wool Pads
  • Characteristics: Made from natural or synthetic wool fibers, offering aggressive cutting ability.
  • Use: Ideal for heavy defect removal, such as deep scratches, severe oxidation, and other significant paint imperfections.
  • Speed & Pressure: Typically used at higher speeds and with more pressure.
  • Examples: Lake Country Wool Cutting Pads.
  • Cut Levels: Typically medium and heavy
  1. Microfiber Pads
  • Characteristics: Consist of microfiber fabric, versatile for both cutting and finishing.
  • Use: Effective for moderate to heavy cutting and finishing tasks. Good for removing swirl marks, and light to medium scratches.
  • Speed & Pressure: Varies based on the density of the microfiber and the pad's design.
  • Examples: Lake Country Microfiber Cutting and Finishing Pads.
  1. Foam Pads
  • Different Types Based on Foam Density:
    • Cutting Pads: Dense, firm foam for moderate defect removal.
    • Polishing Pads: Softer foam for fine polishing, removing minor imperfections.
    • Finishing Pads: Very soft foam for final touches, high-gloss finishes, and application of waxes or sealants.
  • Use: Ranges from moderate cutting (foam cutting pads) to ultra-fine finishing (foam finishing pads).
  • Speed & Pressure: Adjusts according to the pad’s firmness - firmer pads for more aggressive cutting, softer pads for gentle finishing.
  • Examples: Lake Country Foam Cutting, Polishing, and Finishing Pads.

Choosing the Right Pad for Different Detailing Jobs

1. Understanding Paint Hardness

  • Hard Paint: Typically found on German cars, harder to correct (Clear Coat is harder). Requires firmer pads for effective cutting.
  • Soft Paint: Common on Japanese cars, corrects easily but prone to marring. Benefits from softer, gentler pads.
    • Marring is a type of haze left and is most noticeable on deep rich colors, such as black, red, and blue. Usually best removed with a jewlers (finishing) polish and finishing or polishing foam pad depending on the paint.

2. Matching the Job with the Pad

Test First: Typically done on the front or rear fender, start with the least aggressive method, don’t jump to a super heavy cut pad/liquid combo. I usually grab a light cutting liquid and polishing foam pad and run a pass over a 2x2 area to see what my results are. I can then compare to the current state of the paint to determine if I need more or less cut for my first pass, or even just an extra cycle with the same combo.

Here are some common combinations:

  • Heavy Correction (Hard Paint): Start with a wool or microfiber cutting pad and a heavy cutting compound. Switch to a foam polishing pad for refining.
  • Moderate Correction (Average Paint): A microfiber cutting pad or a firm foam pad with a medium compound. Follow up with a foam polishing pad.
  • Light Correction (Soft Paint): Use a foam polishing pad with a light compound or polish. Finish with a foam finishing pad for gloss enhancement.
  • Applying Waxes/Sealants: Regardless of paint type, use a foam finishing pad for the application of waxes and sealants.

3. Examples

  • Deep Scratches on Hard Paint: Begin with a wool pad for leveling the scratches, then refine with a foam polishing pad.
  • Light Swirls on Soft Paint: A foam polishing pad with a fine polish should be sufficient, followed by a finishing pad for waxing.

These are only some basic common examples of which pad to choose based on the defect.

Final notes regarding starting your correction and choosing the correct paid

You won’t know until you test

You will be amazed how many times a good polishing pad (such as the Orange, lake country foam) and medium cut liquid (Shine Supply Classic Cut) will provide some incredible results on paid that looks beat with swirls. It is hard to tell just how severe the defects are (how deep they are into the clear coat) until you complete a test spot.

Here is a good example: Ceramic coatings are very hard but still get swirls and scratches over time, and yes they can look ugly. However depending on the ceramic and its hardness those swirls are typically not very deep and the combo I mentioned above is usually all I need to get the back paint to a 90% correction appearance within a single stage (only one cycle with one combo).

Detailing Liquids: The Fundamentals

Before I jump into this next section I highly recommend if you want to understand liquids in much more depth to do some additional research.I will be creating a very comprehensive piece of content to discuss the chemical break down of compounds and polishes, the different types over the years and the primary differences with examples in some of the top brands. For now this video from 3D gives a nice break down for you.

Understanding Compounds

  • Purpose: Compounds are abrasive liquids designed for heavy paint correction. They remove a thin layer of clear coat to eliminate deep scratches, oxidation, and severe swirl marks.
  • Composition: Generally have a higher concentration of abrasive particles. These particles diminish in size as the compound is worked over the paint.
  • Usage: Best used for restoring paint that has significant damage or is heavily oxidized.

Understanding Polishes

  • Purpose: Polishes are less abrasive than compounds and are used for enhancing the paint's gloss and removing minor imperfections like light swirls and haze.
  • Composition: Contain fine abrasives that refine the paint surface after compounding or to gently correct minor paint flaws.
  • Usage: Ideal for fine-tuning the paint after compounding or for light paint correction on well-maintained vehicles.

Primary Differences Between Brands

  • Chemical Breakdown: Different brands use varying formulations of abrasives, lubricants, and solvents. Some may offer diminishing abrasives (break down as you use them), while others maintain a consistent cut.
  • Ingredients: Certain brands may include fillers to temporarily hide scratches (filler-based) or be purely corrective without fillers (true correction).
  • Performance: Varies in terms of cut level, finishing ability, dusting, work time, and ease of wipe-off.

When to Use Compounds and When to Use Polishes

  • Compounds: When the paint has deep defects like scratches or oxidation. Typically, the first step in a multi-stage correction process.
    • With modern compounds and depending on the paint you can get amazing results with a single stage correction, which will cut light to medium defects and refine out to a beautiful finish with minimal marring.
  • Polishes: After compounding to refine the finish, or alone for minor defects and enhancement of gloss on well-maintained or softer paints.

Pairing Compounds and Polishes with the Right Detailing Pad

  • Compounds: Pair with firmer pads (wool or microfiber cutting pads, or firm foam pads) for effective defect removal.
  • Polishes: Best used with softer foam pads that are less aggressive, to enhance gloss and finish the paint.

Okay now that we got the “standard” pairings defined, the more time you spend with your compounds and polishes the more you will understand their capabilities and limitations. This is why it is highly recommend that you find a brand you like and stick with it. It is of course great idea to have some guest speakers….in your arsenal but you’ll save yourself a lot of guess work with you test 1-2 brands and master their capabilities.

Whenever you have the opportunity setup multiple test spots (hoods are great from the junk yard) or your personal vehicles.Although highly unlikely you will burn paint I recommend as you get started to avoid any liability on customers vehicles

Test spots are a fantastic way to analyze a paints condition and play with various combinations to see what type of results you can get.

Simple get some 1” masking tape and create several 1x1 sections.Pro Tip* Notate with a marker on the tape

  • What is the combination (pad and liquid)
  • How many passes
  • Start Speed/End Speed

Polisher Speed with Different Types of Liquids

  • Compounds: Typically used at higher speeds to maximize cutting ability. Speeds around 2500-5000 RPM are common.
    • If your polishers is graded 1-5(6) think 4-6 range.
  • Polishes: Used at medium to low speeds (1500-3000 RPM) to finely work the polish and achieve a high-gloss finish.

Again this is just the standard “how to use” guide. Many detailers see fantastic results with a lower RPM and slow movement speed for compounds. Why? You allow the compound to work a little longer on the “cut” phase before it begins to diminish the abrasive and refine down. Your first 2 passes are typically your heaviest cut from a compound (unless you are using a consistent cut compound).

Liquids and Paint Types: Hard vs Soft Paint

  • Hard Paint: Requires more aggressive compounds and possibly higher speeds or longer working times to correct.
    • Key indicator: You run a pass with a heavy cut combo and you see about 50% refinement.
  • Soft Paint: More responsive to polishes and less aggressive compounds. Requires a gentle approach to avoid marring.
    • Key Indicator: You run the same combo as above, but you have very tight micro scratches that appear more as a haze then swirls and your correction is not as obvious because of the haze. Jump to another section with a polish combo and see the results then modify your combo to get you the desired cut and move to your polish step for refinement and clarity.

Each step in paint correction plays a crucial role in achieving the desired finish. The key is to start with the least aggressive method that achieves the goal, thus preserving as much of the clear coat as possible.

Lets Start Correcting: Bringing It Together

Up to this point we have given you a comprehensive break down of all the elements involved in auto paint correction.

Why is this important?The more you understand how the various elements work, their purpose and how they combine with each other, the easier time you will have putting it all together and creating combinations to give you fantastic results while also being safe and giving you greater confidence that because you understand all the elements you are significantly less likely to create damage.

To end this guide lets walk through the steps of actually correcting the paint

Paint Correction Application

Prep The Paint

If you want optimal results you should always thoroughly prep your paint. Once the paint is fully prepped you can start setting up to correct.

4-Steps To Paint Decontamination

  • 2-Bucket Wash
  • Clay Bar/Clay Mit
  • Iron Removal
  • Rinse & Dry

Mask Off Plastic/Rubber/Vinyl

Grab some painters tape and start masking. Any vinyl, rubber, or plastic. These porous surfaces will do two things if not masked off properly.

  1. Create debris in your pad, when you pass over these items with your pad you will “burn rubber” and that debris will then be in your pad and can really jack up your correction results.
  2. Discolor the surface: These porous surfaces will suck in the compound and discolor. While you can typically wipe off if this occurs with some IPA or Glass Cleaning Solution it can be a pain and waste time. Plus no one wants a beautiful correction job ending with various white spots on their trim.

HEX It

After you choose your combination based on the various recommendations in earlier sections evenly apply (dab) the product from your pad over the working area. Start in the top left corner and work in overlapping passes left to right and then top to bottom. This is called a hex pattern and ensures that you don’t miss any area.

Inspect

After you have fully cycled the product (liquid) you will wipe the panel down. I recommend having two towels, one to wipe the product away and one to wipe the bit of haze from your first wipe to ensure you are inspecting the paint accurately.

Additional Cycles

Determine if you need to make additional passes.

If you still see scratches and/or swirls you will want to make additional passes before you move onto the polish. Once you feel comfortable with the level of correction achieved (this will depend on the type of paint correction package you sold with desired results of customer) you will move to your polish step for final finishing.

Clean Up

Once done with your cut and polish always do a final wipe down with a IPA, Final Wipe, or waterless wash to remove any lingering dust from the correcting process

*Pro Tip: For best results do a waterless wash wipe down between your correcting and polishing steps

Check for any product build up in crevices, panel gaps, emblems, and other tight areas, blow out with compressed air or use a steamer. If you do not have either of these you can use hot water in a spray bottle and your microfiber towel to help flush it out.

Apply your paint protection as your very last step.

Final Bullets:

  • Importance of your first 2-3 passes
    • Your greatest cut comes in your first 2-3 passes with your compound. After these passes your are now refining the paint and cycling out the abrasive. If you have heavy defects in the paint you can complete a “mow down” and save some time but ending after about 3-4 passes instead of fully cycling out during heavy defect removal.
  • Selecting the right amount of liquid
    • Read the instructions on the bottle, they will always apply to a 2x2 area. If you are aiming to work a larger area you will need more product. But we always recommend sticking to the 2x2 method.
    • If you have a-lot of haze, clean your pad and go with less product on the next section. You can always go with more or less liquid depending on the results you are seeing.
    • Think of it this way: Your pad and your liquid combine together to create a certain level of cut, you can further dial into that formula by increasing or decreasing how much liquid you use and what speed the polisher and your physical movement are to achieve maximum results at any given phase of the paint correction process.
  • Sticking to a section (2x2 rule)
    • Prevents heat build up
    • Optimal size for liquid amount
    • Material build up (refresh zone)
      • This essentially means that after completing a cycle in a 2x2 area you’ll want to clean out your pad to prevent to much build up which can then create the reverse affect and add micro scratches to the paint. You are cutting fractional amounts of clear coat away and these build up in your pad so you need to blow them and the byproducts of your liquids out after every cycle.

Final Tips

  • Mask your plastic!
  • Importance of auto detail pad cleaning
    • Extends life of the pad
    • Provides optimal performance on each cycle
    • Eliminates risk of creating swirls from contamination build up
  • Swap out pads after each side of the vehicle
    • Left, Back, Right, Front, Roof
      • At a minimum do a deep clean with a pressure washer rinse and spin out.
  • Recognizing over use
  • Tool Maintenance
    • Machine
    • Pads
    • Liquids (Expirations, storage conditions)
  • Don’t sit on the paint
    • Keep your machine moving, if you sit in one place you will create tons of heat fast and this is where you risk burning the paint. Slow controlled consistent movement at a minimum. 

Additional Resource:

Best Paint Polishers for Scratch Removal ATA 204

Detailers Terminology 

  • Cutting: The process of removing a layer of clear coat to eliminate deeper scratches and defects.
  • Polishing: Smoothing out the surface after cutting to enhance shine and remove any remaining minor imperfections.
  • Compounding: Using a compound (a more abrasive product) for heavy paint correction.
  • Swirl Marks: Fine scratches that create a swirl pattern on the paint, usually caused by improper washing or drying techniques.
  • Oxidation: The breakdown of paint due to exposure to sunlight and air, leading to a faded or chalky appearance.
  • Clear Coat: The top layer of a car's paint, providing protection and gloss. Most modern cars have a clear coat finish.
  • Wet Sanding: A method of manually sanding down the paint's surface with water and fine-grit sandpaper to remove deep imperfections.
  • Holograms: Buffing trails or 'halos' that are often caused by improper use of rotary polishers or aggressive compounds.
  • Marring: Light scratches or marks typically inflicted during the washing, drying, or detailing process.
  • Dual Action (DA) Polisher: A type of polishing machine that oscillates and rotates, making it safer and easier to use, especially for beginners.
  • Rotary Polisher: A more powerful type of polisher that rotates on a single axis and is typically used for heavy correction work.
  • Paint Depth Gauge: A tool used to measure the thickness of the paint and clear coat, crucial for understanding how much correction can be safely done.
  • Microfiber Towel: A soft, lint-free towel used to remove compounds or polishes without scratching the surface.
  • Claying/Clay Bar: A process of using a clay bar to remove bonded surface contaminants from the paint.
  • Orange Peel: A texture on the paint that looks like the skin of an orange, often due to improper application of paint or clear coat.
  • Finishing Polish: A very mild polish used for the final step to maximize gloss and clarity.
  • Glaze: A product that fills in small imperfections to create a smooth, glossy surface, but doesn't offer long-term correction.
  • Sealant: A synthetic protective coating applied after correction to protect the paint and enhance its appearance.
  • Ceramic Coating: A long-lasting protective coating that bonds with the paint to provide superior protection and gloss.
  • Paint Correction: The overall process of correcting imperfections in a car's paintwork to restore and enhance its appearance.
  • Least Aggressive Method: This principle suggests starting with the gentlest approach (least abrasive polish or pad) that is effective for the task at hand, to preserve as much of the paint and clear coat as possible.
  • Diminishing Abrasive: These are abrasives found in certain compounds and polishes that break down into smaller particles as you work them over the surface. This property allows the product to start with a more aggressive cut and then become finer, finishing more smoothly.
  • Non-Diminishing Abrasive: These are abrasives that maintain a consistent cut and do not break down in size during use. They provide a consistent level of abrasion throughout the buffing process and are typically found in professional-grade compounds and polishes.

I hope you found this piece useful and it gets you started or answers some of your questions during your auto paint correction journey. Stayed tuned more to come. 


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